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Heikki Salonen
Fast approaching A/W 11, has had us bloggers in turmoil, with blast from the past tailoring, controversy returning to the runways and minimal silhouettes to tame us. It seems extremes are dictating the runway with Heikki Salonen defying collateral by producing an adjacently military/ industrious inspired collection.
Keeping the colour palette a simple charcoal reverberation, Salonen, focused his efforts on minimalist tailoring, boyish silhouettes, municipal layers and Lennon inspired eye wear.
2010, 11 silhouettes were represented in the form of simple shift dresses, 80’s style modish bombers, docks and layers. In particular harsh clasp and metal gather detail at cuffs added to the military base with symmetrical button detail and double breasted jackets finish the collection perfectly.
Mannish leathers and harsh cottons gave way to create flow of industry and slight grunge. The meticulous assemble of the colour pallet merged perfectly with dull and matte finishes with singular stand out pieces representative of independent infrastructure.
Stand out pieces included an ash chiffon free falling maxi with bondage style shackles and grey long sleeve shift dress with heavy duty buckles on the cuffs. Asymmetric in style, both pieces give way to contradictive style with femininity being overwhelmed by harshness and contemporary simplicity.
Words by Claire Levick. Images Style.com.
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