Fashion News
An evening with Markus Lupfer
Yesterday I had the honour to meet, interview and join Markus Lupfer for the evening. I was invited down to Selfridges in The Trafford Centre to quiz Markus before joining Manchester's shopping elite to drink champagne whilst Markus talked us through his A/W 10 pre collection.
The collection is so perfectly wearable, each piece is multi functional and is made to be worn both as day wear and evening wear. Markus has kept his signature design traits including his coveted sequin lips and prints on beautifully soft knitwear. Recently developed techniques are also evident throughout, with velvet sequins, studded pleats and a heavy jersey all making an appearance. Intricate beading, hand sewn sequins and beautifully cut dresses are the key features of this collection in a variety of fabrics including jersey, sheer and knit.
I spoke to Markus about his travels, inspiration and upcoming projects, including an MFN exclusive for you...
Manchester Fashion Network: How did you get into the fashion industry?
Markus Lupfer: It just happened really. I've loved it since I was 15, I don't really know why, I've always been creative by doodling and scribbling in maths lessons... My Great Aunt owned a dressmaker, so i think that played a part in it too. I really have just known it's what I wanted to do since I was 15!
MFN: Who do you see as the Markus Lupfer woman?
ML: Olivia Palermo, she dress so simply, never wears anything too complicated but always looks sexy, stylish and effortless. Someone who wants something comfortable but special at the same time.
MFN: Do you ever let your personal style effect your designs or do you simple design for your customer?
ML: A mix of both I'd say, obviously I love everything I design and would wear it if I was a girl! You do have to think about who you're designing for and be business minded. I always imagine customers being in a drawer, each type in a different drawer, you just have to make sure you're designing for the right one. I design for the business and for what I love.
MFN: What would you say your designs are described as most?
ML: My clothes are daywear, but still sexy and stylish. Fun, easy to wear and comfortable that looks expensive but it's sold at a good price.
MFN: Do you find it easy to juggle between different projects like you did when you designed for Armand Basi One?
ML: I find it quite simple really, there's a definite difference between the Markus Lupfer woman, theme and World. It really is quite separate from other collections. Also, I like to switch and split up my ideas between collections as sometimes and idea suits one thing better than another.
MFN: Where do you draw inspiration from?
ML: Many different places, I draw it from music, what happens in the World, exhibitions, travel... I generally take an element from it and put it into my designs. I love the recent exhibition of quilts at the V&A Museum. It's important to keep being inspired, it defines the decades and show the movements of fashion.
MFN: You said that your idea for sequin lips came to you in a 'Eureka' moment, do you prefer to work instantaneously or develop an idea over a long period of time?
ML: A mix of both I think, sometimes I can have an idea, sketch it roughly and send it off to the factory to be made, within 10 minutes but it really depends on the idea as some things need to be worked on.
It all started with the lips, I did a quick sketch, sent it off to the factory and when it came back we loved it. But other parts really need to be developed, it's interesting to develop the ideas and see how they might work. We usually use humour and tongue in cheek motifs, subtle changes from season to season to keep everything fresh and current.
MFN: Is there a running theme throughout your A/W 10 collection?
ML: There's not really a constant theme, in the last two years since increasing the collections from two to four per year, Pre and Cruise collections are getting more important especially for retailers so we're focusing on them too. We usually have a hinted themes running through each collection, like nautical or luxe loungewear.
The A/W 10 collection is a little more punk with tartan fabrics and distressed fabrics. We take every day clothes and make something special, it's easy to turn a look from my collection from day to evening by adding a heel, they are very flexible designs. We call our jumpers 'Sunday Best' because they are perfect for relaxing in comfort but look really nice as well.
MFN: Do you follow trends or create them?
ML: I think we are in a position to create them but, at the moment, I am consciously not pushing the trends further, I don't want to be at the forefront of the fashion industry but I'm definitely not a follower. I'd say the collection is in tune with trends but you have to keep appealing to the customer, bringing something new but familiar.
MFN: You have collaborated with many different brands, for example Topshop, do you feel it is important to collaborate?
ML: It is and I love doing it. We're currently working on an exciting project with Steiff, creating jewelled teddy bears that should be ready for Christmas. It's very exciting to work on collaborations, I need to have the time and be prepared though. It also brings new products that we would never come into contact with which is great.
MFN: As you have travelled all over the World, where would you say your favourite place for fashion is?
ML: Fashion is always changing all over the World. You need that element of reality which i would say is more evident in London, the streetwear, culture, creativity and music all adds to the creative style. In terms of just travelling, I love India, where I have just come back from and would love to visit Eithiopia. It is just so crazy there, but so exciting and inspiring, their traditions and the way they live are so interesting. I would love to visit the tribes and I'm so inspired by their body art, it would be a great experience.
MFN: Do you have a personal favourite from your collections?
ML: I have two. One is the upcoming A/W collection, there are nice shapes and silhouettes. It's very simple but gorgeous. The other collections is, I think, from 2001. It was full of very colourful knitwear with leather cut-outs.
MFN: How do you feel about the surge of online fashion resources and blogs?
ML: It is very good, definitely nice to see, it's like a second World of just information, information, information. Everyone is able to showcase themselves for what they are. On the other hand it's speeding up fashion to a crazy point, everything has already been discovered. In the 80's a following for something was developed over a couple of months, now it's very easy, it's quite sad really.
In terms of fashion, because the internet is so fast, it has sped up fashion. Things can be seen within hours of them being on the catwalk and copied immediately. By the time it gets to the shop, it's already been ripped off several times on the high street, why would you buy an £800 dress when you can get a very similar version for £50 elsewhere? I don't know if it will ever change, but I hope it will. We actually had a situation with a designer in New Zealand who we asked to remove a piece from her collection because it was an exact copy of one of ours... The internet is dangerous but it allows everyone to have a voice so there's good and bad.
MFN: Do you have a favourite designer?
ML: I always wore and loved Helmut Lang.
MFN: What can we expect to see from you in the future?
ML: Lots more dresses, more everything really. We're building up the brand and developing it. We're also starting to venture into menswear but we haven't announced it yet, well until now!
With thanks to Markus Lupfer and Selfridges.
Words by Clare Potts. Images courtesy of Markus Lupfer and Selfridges.
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