Mastermind of audacious print Mary Katrantzou has shown her notable talents again at London Fashion Week with her latest AW 10-11 collection. The Athenian designer whose previous offerings received a certain amount of denigration for lack of shape and silhouette has come up trumps and shown her critiques that there is more to her talents than just bold print.

Katrantzou’s signature ‘hyperrealistic’ motifs were still central theme in her collection but were showcased on a variant of long and short sleeved dresses cinched in at the waist producing an hour glass silhouette. Texture was created with chiffon and mesh, lace on sleeves, ruffles and over lapped fabric on the shoulder and skirt pushing the boundaries of ultra-feminine chic.  Woollen tailored coats in block colours with structured collars and tails fashioned a strong visual contrast against the industrious prints –communicating a duet of sharpness and silky-smoothness.

The St Martin’s graduate and British Fashion Council New Generation winner opted for a palette that was vastly muted compared to that of last season’s digitalized technicolour bombshell. Her prints celebrate a favoured trompe l’oeil mural effect, bringing the fabrics to life with sharp geometric imagery and adornments echoing Aztec shaped jewellery, antique medals and perfume bottle contours executed in rich regal and baronial colours. Katrantzou went for more simplistic decoration than the previous SS10 collection when models hit the runway adorned with thick solid neck cuffs, chunky anklets and tour de force hand glass-blown necklaces –this season oversize intricate geometric neckpieces finished the look off to perfection and emphasised one of the most striking collections so far.

Words by Hannah Lindsay Fleming. Images from trendland.com.

If you liked this article, you may also like Harvey Nichols Fashion Show.

Recent comments...

You must be registered and logged in to post a comment.

All comments submitted on this page do not express the views of MFN, we will endeavor to remove any offensive, rude, defamatory comments.