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On the 6th day London created Menswear

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The day I've had marked on my calender for months has finally arrived, it's Menswear. It all takes place at Somerset House and tickets to these shows were the hottest in town. The room was literally bursting with new talent.


Carolyn Massey

What a start to the day with the much talked about RCA graduate Carolyn Massey, up first. Using military details as inspiration but creating a very different aesthetic, the models were a wash with a unexpected palette of soft pinks, greys and nudes, set on a base of deep reds, khakis, navys and blacks. Styles came in the form of asymmetrical blazers, long wool coats, boxy leather tunics and panelled knitwear, wide sleeved shirts and a grey jump suit was a key peice. Accessories were strong as always in menswear with oversized scarfs, long socks via Tabio and knitwear was fastened with brooches. This is why I love menswear.

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JW Anderson

JW Anderson set a totally different mood, showing garments which were a mixture of punk and traditional countryside, creating a unique twist. Tartan blanket jackets were teamed with wool trousers and studded gold belts, sheepskin jackets went with heavily embellished stonewashed denim and chunky cable knits worn with turned up chinos. A flurry of colours including vivid yellows and reds, along with cream, dusty pink and camel tones. Chokers, backpacks, earrings and heavy hiking boots were all on display. Topped off with bunches of flowers, coming out of every possible compartment. Shall we call it Nu-Rural?

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Christopher Shannon

The key to menswear is not to take it too seriously, queue the king of experimental sportswear, Christopher Shannon. Highlights included nylon outerwear worn with matching trousers, layers of sheer tshirts, panelled shirts in a mixture of sheepskin and shiny fabrics, chunky layered hoodies and sweats. All suuped up in ice greys, navy, whites and vibrant pinks and purples. I'm predicting be things for Shannon's sportswear in the future.

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James Long

Interesting textured were created by mixing various fabrics including heavy corduroy, faux-fur and mohair on cardigans and outerwear. All outerwear was belted in tight at the waist to create a all round looser silhouette. Cropped leather biker jackets in black and red were again layered with longer coats. Going away from the skinny trousers and experimenting with all-in-one boiler suits was another great success. The only print came in the way of what looked like a bleached print, which created its own tie-dye effect but on a much subtler scale. This was one show not to miss.

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TOPMAN Design

The great outdoors was the theme with a rural, practical look and colour palette. Paperbag style trousers were a welcomed edition to this seasons menswear, which were well executed, together with heavy duty parkas with oversized hoods and MORE sheepskin trims. This is the first season TM Design have gone it alone, as they usually show in the MAN show along with other new designers. This collection felt like TM Design's strongest to date, with a polished identity. An unexpected twist came in the shape of tree branch print t-shirts and jumpers, which carried on the outdoors theme and the injection of oranges and bright blues. Layers upon layers of browns, greens, charcoals and beige in various shades moulded the collection together along with hints of purples and whites and reds. Other new edition on the trouser front were pocketed long johns and patchwork jeans paired with patterned cardigans and padded bomber jackets. Hightlights: red belted mac, multi coloured cardigan, tree patterned white shirt and of course, the paperbag.
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Report by Matthew Pike

twitter.com/mat_buckets

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